Wirecutter updated its non-stick pan recommendations recently and, guess what? It’s a toxic list of PTFE pans.
When I tell people I’m Head of Research at Leaf Score and they ask what we do, I sometimes refer to the site as the green Wirecutter, or Wirecutter with a conscience.
Case in point, Wirecutter updated its non-stick pan recommendations recently and, guess what? It’s a toxic list of PTFE pans.
No PTFE for me, thanks
Now, I don’t dispute Wirecutter’s assertion that PTFE coatings tend to last longer than most ceramic coatings, thus winning these PTFE pans some points for durability.
However, that still doesn’t negate the following facts:
- Producing PTFE is a toxic business that can harm workers and the environment
- PTFE pans expose people to forever chemicals every time they cook with them
- PTFE and associated PFAS chemicals are ‘forever chemicals’ that bioaccumulate and persist
- PFAS chemicals are associated with a slew of health concerns, for humans and other animals.
Even Wirecutter acknowledges that “there are serious environmental concerns” with PTFE. Though it also says these pans are safe to cook with at moderate temperatures. I disagree, unless you’re being very selective about your idea of safety.
‘Less risky’ – Really?
Wirecutter also plays into the hands of major chemical manufacturers by reassuring readers that pans made in the US no longer contain PFOA and PFOS. These are two of the most egregious PFAS chemicals and were banned in cookware several years ago.
However, cookware made in other countries may still contain these chemicals. And, frankly, given the current state of U.S. environmental regulation and consumer protection, I wouldn’t put too much weight in those PFAS standards holding.
Wirecutter is careful to choose non-stick pans made with GenX or PFBS chemicals instead of PFOA and PFOS. It implies that these are safer because they break down faster, in theory. It even says they’re ‘less risky’.
The thing is, though, that these ‘new’ chemicals aren’t inherently safer. They just haven’t been subject to as much research and scrutiny as their predecessors. And the research that has been carried out, much to the chagrin of chemical manufacturers, clearly shows health concerns and environmental issues.
According to the EPA, “GenX chemicals have been found in surface water, groundwater, drinking water, rainwater, and air emissions.”
Speaking of industry, I couldn’t help but notice that the Wirecutter piece on non-stick pans only cites two sources, both of which are PTFE chemical coating manufacturers (PPG Whitford and DuPont).
Worryingly, the EPA report also notes that:
GenX chemicals have similar persistence in the environment as longer chain PFAS, such as PFOA and PFOS. They are also more mobile than longer chain PFAS, leading to the potential to result in exposure at greater distances than legacy PFAS in off-site transport or in ground water.
EPA report on GenX chemicals
Now, preliminary research does seem to suggest that GenX chemicals accumulate in lower amounts in humans than PFOS and PFOA, but they still accumulate.
And studies clearly demonstrate that GenX chemicals adversely affect the:
- Liver
- Kidneys
- Immune system
- Development of offspring.
Not to mention that they’re also associated with cancer.
Less is better, but it’s still not none.
And where do you find no PFAS? In well-made, third-party tested, ceramic coated pans (as well as carbon steel and cast iron pans, which I recommend the most).
Wirecutter doesn’t recommend ceramic coated pans
The team at Wirecutter isn’t fond of ceramic coated pans, for one main reason: longevity.
Sure, many ceramic coated pans lose their stickiness fast. We’ve tested a few and added our caveats accordingly.
Still, there are newer pans that do just as good a job as PTFE coated pans and, with appropriate care, could last you several years. That’s about all you can expect from a PTFE pan too.
The difference, of course, is that disposing of a PTFE pan also poses environmental risks. A ceramic coated pan is far less damaging and perhaps even easier to recycle, where such facilities exist.
Where I agree with Wirecutter
Don’t get me wrong, I like Wirecutter. It’s a useful site with good writers and a lot of resources to cover a lot of ground. I envy their budget and reach!
I also agree with Wirecutter that the best non-stick pan is a pan that will last a lifetime. And that means going for well-seasoned carbon steel or cast iron.
Not everyone’s on board with these types of pan though. So, for those who really super need a non-stick pan right out of the box, ceramic coated is the best we’ve got. At least, that is, if you care about the environment and human health.
Even if a PTFE pan lasts twice as long as a ceramic coated pan (which most won’t), that will never make up for the toxic chemicals created and flushed out into waterways, soil, the air, and our bodies. If there’s one message that should stick from this diatribe of mine, that’s it.